This was my August 31st through October 30th project in 2015. I've replaced all the brake lines with brand new stainless lines, brand new rubber flex lines, converted to a dual master cylinder, and flushed and then refilled the system with silicone DOT 5 fluid.
The booster and master shown are for a 1967 Buick Wildcat. I couldn't find definitive documentation online which of any of the two 1967 Master Cylinders would mate with a 1964 booster, so I bought a Master Cylinder/Booster set that matched up to Bendix replacements. Once I got all the parts I found that the particular master cylinder would indeed mate to the 1964 booster. Only issue is the bale which keeps the lip on tight, has a little contact with the booster, but it also does that on the 1967 booster. I also found through this project the 1967 booster will not fit on a column shift car.
Pictured are the new hoses, clips, brass tee, and master cylinder bleeding kit. I'm switching to DOT5 so I'll be flushing with alcohol, but at this point the wheel cylinders will be the only thing not replaced in the hydraulic system.
Wildcat New Master Cylinder
Durastop - Bendix Master Cyl - w/Power Brakes
|12 months/12,000 mile warranty||$44.72|
|A1 Cardone||54-91104||RockAuto Dec 2012||This 1967
booster will not fit a full size 1964 Buick with a column shift- the booster
interferes with the shift linkage.
1967 Buick Wildcat Reman. Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder Drum brakes; Rear Drum brakes; with Bendix Brake Booster; Original Bendix Boosters are Usually Painted Black
||$106.33 w/$30 core and shipping|
|Inline Tube||SBLK202LP||Inline Tube
|1965-66 Chevrolet Impala Dual Master Conversion Brass Block & 2 Master Cylinder Lines Power- Stainless||30 days after the delivery of goods to the buyer||$92.10 w/shipping|
|Inline Tube||SBLB6401||Inline Tube
|1964 Buick LeSabre/Wildcat Power Drum Brake Line Set 6pc, Stainless||30 days after the delivery of goods to buyer||$196.35 w/shipping|
|Inline Tube||OBH1034A||Inline Tube
|1962-64 Buick Full-size Electra / Invicta / LeSabre / Wildcat Front Drum / Rear Drum 3 hose set. 8 pc.||30 days after the delivery of goods to buyer||$66.43 w/shipping|
|Inline Tube||CLP112||Inline Tube
|Brake Line Clip,
3/16' Tube, Flat 5/16' Wide
|30 days after the delivery of goods to buyer||$24 w/ shipping|
|Dorman HELP! Master Cylinder Bleeder Kit||Lifetime warranty||$6.46|
|Pik-A-Nut Line Adapter- Tube- 3/16 inch x 1/4 inch||1 year warranty||$2.17 w/tax|
|Pittsburgh Automotive||95782||Harbor Freight
|3/16 in. & 1/4 in tube bending pliers||Lifetime warranty with proof of purchase||$10.45 /w tax after coupon|
|DOT 5 Silicone Brake Fluid, 30 oz||$21|
|Motor Medic||M40-11||O'Rielly Auto
|DOT 5 Silicone Brake Fluid, 11 oz||$10.89 w/tax|
|Dupli Color||FP101||O'Rielly Auto Oct 2015||Gray General Purpose Sandable Scratch Filler and Primer - 11 oz||30 day limited warranty||$7.62 w/ tax|
|Dupli Color||DA1612||O'Rielly Auto Oct 2015||
Gunmetal Gray Paint
|30 day limited warranty||$6.53 w/ tax|
|Dupli Color||DE1636||O'Rielly Auto Oct 2015||Ceramic Clear Coat - 12 oz||30 day limited warranty||$7.62 w/ tax|
|Denatured Alcohol||$17.42 w/tax|
|(Misc)||(Misc)||Lowe's, Home Depot||Miscellaneous hardware||Varied||Minimal cost|
Above is pretty much the key to all of this, the dual master cylinder conversion block, pictured at right. Original to the car is to the left. The necessary line adapter is in the output for the rear brakes.
Start of the solution to move the distribution block forward.
Bracket during the mock up phase. I got a stainless hex bolt that would recess properly to keep the clearances as low as possible.
Finished bracket. I found I had to move the distribution block forward of the original because of the fact the passenger line would exit to the left instead of toward the front like the original. Here is shown the bracket made to move the block so the exiting line would not interfere with the power steering lines. I had to re-bend the Inline Tube bracket to make the block lower profile for the connections, and once I did that had to drill a new hole for the nut and bolt. In addition, the bracket that attached to the block had to be re-bent and cut.
Original setup. Power steering box is shown to the left in this frame. Brake distribution block is toward the middle. The master cylinder comes in the top of the block, the line in the rear is for the rear brakes, the line on the front bottom with the gravel guard is for the driver front, and the line on the front top is for the passenger side.
First mock up; the electric to the starter removed for clarity. This is with the bracket on the distribution block that brings it forward so the front passenger brake line will clear the power steering. The line from Inline for the front passenger brake was re-bent right at the end to bring it to the side instead of to the front like factory. Also, the front master cylinder to distribution block line had to be re-bent as it was hitting the washer fluid reservoir. I wanted to be able to return to stock if I wanted to, and I can do that and I would only have to re-bend or replace the front passenger brake line.
The 1967 booster would not work. It would fit, and looked like it might mate up to the pedal correctly, but the booster interferes with the column shift linkage. The speedo cable to the right is close but would have cleared, and while the steering column below looks close it did clear. Take a look at this thread to see a 1963 with a column shift converted using 1967 parts.
Since the 67 booster didn't work, and I already had the perfectly functional but 10 years of corrosion booster out, I decided I didn't want to look at ugly any more.
Sanded with 4 grades of sandpaper ending at 1000 grit, 3 coats of primer, 3 coats of gunmetal enamel, and 3 coats of clear. Looks much better.
Some before and after action. The after picture has the wiring harness to the starter in place so you can see everything including the power steering hoses clear the dual master cylinder.
10 year old driver and passenger side hoses replaced with ones from Inline Tube.
Back old pipes and line vs. new. The old stuff was in remarkably good age for 51 years old.
The block Inline Tube provided (left) was not correct for the back of a 1964 Buick. I had mangled the factory block (middle) getting it out since I assumed I had a replacement via the Inline block. I ended up using the block I had saved from my parts car (right).
Once all the lines were replaced I flushed the master cylinder then all the lines and wheel cylinders with denatured alcohol.
Once I got all the old fluid out and all the alcohol was flowing clean, I bled it all out via the pedal. I then opened one bleeder at a time and blew the line out for 30 seconds with dried air to make sure the alcohol was good and gone.
The money shot of $21 of DOT 5 brake fluid being bled through until I knew there wasn't a trace of anything that shouldn't be there. I ended up spending $11 more dollars ($1 an ounce) on another bottle to top it off and to have some in reserve.
Here is everything put back together where it goes including the starter wiring harness, power steering hoses, plug wires, and rerouted brake vacuum supply.
The road test was an absolute success. Firm pedal, great braking, proper lockup in extremes and stops straight. I'd do it again in a heartbeat!